Everyone who travels back from San Andrés has an expression of awe when describing the palette of colors of its sea. Like a oceanic rainbow, the water that bathes this small Caribbean island ranges from yellow, passing to turquoise, ending in a shade of deep blue that invites tourists to spend their vacation swimming in true paradise.
Although San Andrés belongs to Colombia, it is located 700 km away from its motherland but only about 200 km from Nicaragua, which has triggered this country to initiate an international dispute for the sovereignty of the island. This tale only sets the mood for understanding the diversity of San Andrés: discovered by the Spaniards, colonized by the British, inhabited by natives and African slaves, invaded by pirates and finally attached to Colombia in 1822.
The highest concentration of hotels can be found in the northern side of the island. Many of them include a shuttle service, but if not, most of them are located so close to the airport that, if you don’t carry heavy luggage, is better to walk to your destination than fight for an overpriced taxi cab. The public beach also lies in this zone and is considered one of the most beautiful in the island, with white sand and a great view to Johnny Cay. As San Andrés is a duty free port, stroll through the maze of stores to find good luxury products as perfumes, liquors and clothing brands at a reasonable price.
How to get around
There are many ways to go around the island, and you may choose between renting a golf cart, taking a touristic train or getting a bike. The whole trip won’t last more than half day. The central part of the island is covered by a green lush forest, hosting a great diversity of fauna and flora that has led UNESCO to declare San Andrés a biosphere reserve in 1995. Going up the hill (La Loma), pass by the first Baptist church established in 1844, stop to make a stunning panoramic photo of the “seven colors sea” and visit La Laguna, a pond not proper for bathing but home to great informal parties organized by locals and refugee for birds, crabs and even babillas, not so friendly small alligators.
Take a moment to rest at Playa San Luis, another public beach less beautiful but also less crowded than the one at the Northern end. Next, head to Hoyo Soplador, the “blowing-hole,” where dozens of people gather, waiting for currents strong enough to push the waves through this opening on the rock, producing a surprisingly 20-meter water gush that makes everyone wet.
In the west side of the island, make another stop at the Piscinita, which literally means “little swimming pool,” to dive into deep blue waters surrounded by thousands of fishes. Don’t miss the tacky Pirate’s Museum. It is a tribute to legendary seamen, such as Sir Henry Morgan, a pirate who assaulted many embarkations during the 17th century in the Caribbean, hiding, as legend says, his treasures inside the cave found at the museum’s backyard.
Natural aquariums
Visiting the small islets nearby San Andrés is a mandatory tour. Boats leave from the pier in the morning, first stopping at Acuario, a natural pool formed by different coral rings where hundreds of colored tropical fishes swim for the amusement of tourists. If you want to take a very up-close look, locals will be happy to rent you a mask for 3 dollars each. From there, you may walk to Haynes Cay, another desert island that often serves as a romantic set for weddings. Last, the tour will stop at Johnny Cay, another scenic islet full of coconut trees and deep blue water. A small restaurant serves fresh cooked fish and patacones, a Colombian specialty made with smashed green plantains fried and salted. To complete this laidback scenario, refresh yourself with a reddish rum-based Coco Loco cocktail.
The combination of coral reefs, sunken ships, crystal waters and magnitude of maritime fauna transforms San Andrés in a paradise for divers. In addition, San Andrés is known as one of the cheaper places in the world to dive and snorkel.
Lodging
The Decameron chain of hotels offers the best – and priciest – way to enjoy San Andrés fully. With six hotels in the island, you can divide your trip and spend as much time as you wish at any of its facilities. Watch the sunset drinking a free cocktail at the Super Aquarium overlooking the ocean or practice some watersport activities at the Marazul. As Decameron offers a full package including flight, accommodation, and free meals and drinks, your only worry will be planning how to enjoy your time at this paradise.
However, if you don’t plan to spend too much, there are plenty of more modest offers at the northern end of the island, which also provides welcoming service and front beach views. Among them, tourists highly recommend Hotel Casablanca and Portobello, which also offers apartments for rent. If you are even more on a budget, try staying with local families who often have rooms available for backpackers or the ones traveling solo.
Mariana Nissen - Mariana Nissen
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